Asus A8N - E, Premium, Sli, etc...

[Mornion]

Postado Originalmente por djesb@29 de abril de 2006, 10:10

aos usuarios que pussuem tambem a placa de som da creative AUDIGY 2.

vocês estão tento problemas com elas e suas asus? porque eu estou tendo na A8V e vi no forum da creative muita gente com placa-mãe asus reclamando o mesmo problema...

o problema e igual a todas ...ruidos, estalos altos durante os jogos.

alguem com esse problema???

←

Eu tenho uma A8V e uma Live! 5.1 Digital. Esse problema é só com a Audigy? Porque eu num to tendo nada aqui...

[AKTech]

Para aqueles que manjam inglês segue informações do forum abaixo que achei muito interessantes.

http://mental18.phpbbweb.com/mental18-ftop...mforum=mental18

PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 6:50 pm Post subject: VERY USEFUL SETUP PROCEDURE! Reply with quote

The following has prooved to be a great help for setting up this great board of ours. When you start the setup procedure, make sure you follow the advice to a 'T' and dont skip a thing!

Please note that the post was written last year so you will need latest Chipset drivers and Graphics Card drivers. The rest will be fine at setup stage.

Good Luck!

Introduced in late 2004, the Asus A8N SLI Deluxe motherboard (placa-mãe) was one of the first Scalable Link Interface (SLI) capable placa-mãe’s to hit the streets in quantity. It features the Nforce 4 chipset and two PCI express (PCIe) slots enabling it to run dual NVIDIA video cards in SLI mode. As the first SLI capable placa-mãe to be offered in large quantity to the market it also served as a sort of test bed for all the builders out there who wanted an SLI system. This naturally brought to light not only the little problems inherent to the A8N SLI Deluxe but the needs and issues peculiar to SLI PC’s in general

This guide is not a review of SLI but is an attempt to condense nearly 210 pages and some 4200 posts regarding the A8N SLI Deluxe motherboard in particular and all SLI placa-mãe’s in general. Started by Saner Sassen as a guide to building an SLI rig based on the A8N SLI Deluxe placa-mãe it evolved into a long term troubleshooting forum that addressed the myriad problems encountered by SLI system builders.

In this guide I will break down the SLI system building, with the A8N SLI Deluxe placa-mãe as the reference point, into basic system requirements, safe BIOS settings, and common problems and their solutions sorted by component type (CPU, RAM, BIOS, PSU, video (SLI), audio, hard drive (RAID) and the case. I will do this by picking the best posts from the extensive thread started by Sander and using this post and resultant answer as the problem presented and best solution found. Of course I’ll give credit to the original author.

Important Note: The chipset fan on A8N SLI Deluxe motherboards manufactured prior to around August 2005 is a known defective design and is very prone to failure. Asus will replace it with just a phone call to customer service. You need only answer a few questions and they will ship one out to you. No RMA is required. You do have to remove the motherboard from the case in order to install the fan, however, and the new fan while quieter and with an RPM of around 5,000RPM instead of 8,500 RPM, does not cool as efficiently. Chipset temperatures of 41c can be expected after install of the new fan.

PICKING THE PARTS:

Power Supply Unit (PSU):

The A8N SLI Deluxe is a modern placa-mãe and was built with the ATX 12V version 2.0 Power Supply Unit (PSU) in mind. These PSU’s are supposed to have dual 12V rails, a 24 pin main power connector and 4 pin P4 power connector. It should also provide at least 200 volts on the 12v rail and a minimum of 18 amps.

Experience has proven that the single biggest mistake one can make when building an SLI rig is to go cheap on the PSU. NVIDIA has several certified PSU’s on their site, which I will list here, but the main thing is to select a PSU that meets the ATX 12V v2.0 standards and has enough power to run a SLI rig. The criteria I would recommend is a PSU with 500 watts minimum, dual 12V rails with at least 18 amps per rail, 24 pin main power connector and at least one, but preferably two, 6 pin PCIe video card power connector(s). This may seem extreme, especially when compared with what Sander was initially recommending as acceptable PSU’s but as I said earlier, weak PSU’s have caused more problems than any other single component.

Here are the PSU’s that are certified by NVIDIA as of 9/12/2005:

Antec TPII-550

Antec TP2550EPS12V

Antec TrueControl II 550

Enermax EG565P-VE 535W

Enermax EG651AX-VH EPS12V 550W

Enermax EG851AX-VH EPS12V 660W

Enermax EG701AX Noisetaker 600W

PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool® 510 SLI (510ATX-PFC)

PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool® 850 SLI (850ETX-PFC)

Seasonic S12-600 Watt

Silverstone ST65ZF 650W

SilverstoneST60F 600W

Sunbeamtech NUUO Series 550W SLI (SUNNU550-US)

Note that Tom’s Hardware Guide selected the Seasonic S12 as their top PSU for a high end rig. All of the above will safely run a dual video card PC with all the peripherals. If you plan on never running two cards then of course you can get away with a less powerful PSU. Also, the less powerful video cards can get by with less powerful PSU’s. Here are some safe bets that haven’t been vetted by NVIDIA yet and were the original PSU’s recommended by Sander (before NVIDIA was certifying units) Some of the above are included and some are not:

Power supplies tested with a single GeForce 6x00/GT/Ultra or up to 6600GT SLI

- Zalman ZM400B-APS, 400-watts

- Antec TruePower 430, 430-watts

- Tagan TG480-U01, 480-watts

- Enermax Coolergiant EG435AX, 430-watts

Power supplies tested with GeForce 6800GT and 6800 Ultra in SLI

- Tagan TG480-U01

- Antec NeoPower 480

- Fortron Source FSP550-60PLN*

- Antec TruePower 550 EPS12V*

- PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 510 SLI**

Remember that the 7800 series of cards are actually less power hungry than the 6800 GT and Ultra series and can operate with a slightly less powerful PSU. Also, as I said above it is recommended to get a PSU with native dual 6 pin PCIe video card plugs. There has not, however, been any problems reported with using the dual molex to single 6 pin adapters that come with most late model cards. Just make sure the molex connectors are off the same rail as the 6 pin PCIe plug thus ensuring that both cards have their own 12V rail to themselves.

Processors:

Picking the CPU is not as difficult as the PSU but I’d recommend no less than the 3700+ with San Diego core (90nm). Of course the faster the better and dual cores are preferable. Just try and match your CPU to your video cards as closely as possible in performance so as not to bottleneck one with the other. Thus, two 7800GT cards should be run with a 4000+ San Diego core or 4400-X2 Toledo core. The 7800GTX would be better paired with the FX-55 or 57 San Diego core or 4800X2 Toledo core. Of course this is open to interpretation and is strictly my own opinion and you can always overclock (O/C) a lesser CPU. A good substitute would be a 3500+ San Diego O/C’ed to 2.4GHZ. The possibilities are nearly endless and half the fun of building a high end rig is playing with the built in potential off the various parts.

Video Cards:

Once again the choices here are many and are largely limited by how deep your pockets are. Right now the king of the hill is the 7800GTX. It is an incredible piece of technology and is a huge leap over the 6800 series of GPU’s. The biggest problem folks have is balancing SLI, cards and their budget.

Two good rule of thumb comparisons are: Two 6600GT’s in SLI are just about equal to a single 6800GT performance-wise. AT the upper end, two 6800Ultras in SLI are just slightly better than one 7800GTX. These are rough rule of thumb comparisons and different benchmarks yield different results but for the sake of this discussion these are good enough.

What the above means is that if you can afford it, get one 6800GT, rather than two 6600GT’s and go SLI when the price drops and you can afford a second 6800GT. You’ll see a huge performance increase. Going two 6600GT’s right away leaves no room for improvement, costs just about what a single 6800GT costs and offers no real performance increase over the single 6800GT. If you can only afford the one 6600GT then go that route and get the second when you have the money and you get 6800GT performance on the installment plan.

Also, with the release of the 81.85 driver, and above, by NVIDIA, the user can now mix and match video cards from different manufacturers. The only caveat is that the cards have the same GPU on-board. This means you must match a 7800GT with another 7800GT, a GTX with another GTX, etc.

Last but not least, video cards based on a ATI GPU will NOT work in a SLI rig.

Memory:

Sander’s initial info is still good, so here it is:

Unless you plan on bleeding edge overclocking, some good, CAS 2.5-3-3-6 DDR400, PC3200, memory will do just fine. Brands that offer excellent memory are OCZ, Crucial and Corsair. Please stay away from memory featuring LED readout or other extras or memory from lesser known manufacturers. We’d recommend a 1GB dual channel kit for this motherboard, regardless of whether you pick an Athlon 64 or Athlon 64 FX or X2 processor.

In addition to Sander’s above I’d recommend that if you are contemplating running 2GB of memory in the future then don’t wait till later to get it. Buy the 2 x 1GB sticks now rather than 2 x 512MB now and 2 x 512MB later. The reason for this is the AMD 64 on-board memory controller. It has a hard time addressing four dual sided DIMM’s at decent timings. This includes the newer CPU’s.

What I mean exactly is that AMD 64 CPU’s before the San Diego core could only address dual sided DIMM’s at 333MHZ DDR and 2T timings. The San Diego core and beyond supposedly addressed this issue but that is questionable. The dual core CPU’s seem to be able to address 4 dual sided DIMM’s at 400DDR but are still limited to 2T timing.

The good news is that all AMD 64 CPU’s can address two dual sided DIMM’s at 400DDR 1T and very aggressive timings. So, if you are going 2GB then do it right up front or you’ll find yourself pulling your two 512MB DIMM’s and replacing them with two 1GB DIMM’s thereby wasting 2 sticks of probably expensive RAM.

Hard Drives

Sander’s initial post went like this: Any Serial-Ata harddisk would do fine, we’re pretty fond of Hitachi ourselves and have used up to two 250GB 7K250 discs in RAID and that performed admirably. Make sure these are connected to the NForce 4 chipset RAID controller though. More on that later, in the section about setting your drives up properly.

I’d like to add an addendum to the above. Experience has shown that the single most problematic hard drive (HDD) when paired with the A8N SLI Deluxe has been the Maxtor. They seem to conflict with both SATA controllers in many, but not all, cases. Without getting into a debate regarding the virtues of Maxtor drives, I’d suggest you stay away from them when selecting a HDD for this placa-mãe. Personally I have found the Western Digital SATA drives to be the least troublesome.

DVD/CD/RW/ROM

Sander: There are some problems with getting Serial-Ata Divers to work, so I certainly would not go that route. There are no benefits for doing so, other than a small reduction in cable clutter, but that really isn’t worth it. Good DVD/CD/ROM drives are Lite-On and older Toshibas such as the SD-M1802. For a DVDRW we’d pick a NEC 3500A or 3520A.

In addendum, you can get the SATA optical drives to work if you initially load everything from a regular IDE drive then introduce the SATA optical to the system after the system is stabilized. This all begs the question, though, of why bother? If cable clutter is an issue I recommend you buy some rounded IDE cables. SATA optical just isn’t worth the hassle.

Installation:

The following will guide you through the installation process as initially written by Sander. The only thing I will change is to substitute the latest BIOS and such things dated as of mid September 2005. The reference CPU for thie below guide is an AMD 3500+ Winchester at 2.2 GHZ (200 CPU freq @ 11x multiplier)

Sander:

Upgrading the BIOS

One of the first things to do when you get the motherboard is upgrade the BIOS to the latest non-beta release, which is 1013. The proper way of doing this is by using a floppy drive as a startup disk. You’ll need to have access to a second computer to create the needed startup files, according to the following procedure.

- Download the latest 1016 BIOS and BIOS flash tool here: http://support.asus.com/download/download....8N-SLI%20Deluxe

- Download the BIOS and flash tool under the BIOS section of above mentioned URL.

- In Windows XP go to the floppy drive

- Format with using the option to create a MSDOS startup disk

- Once the disk is created unpack the 1016 BIOS and flash tool to the floppy

- Configure the motherboard with just the memory, processor and heatsink/fan (HSF), video card and floppy drive

- Set the SLI selector card to ‘single card’

- Connect the power supply, including the 4-pin 12volt and 6-pin PCIe

- Hit ‘del’ once the system displays the boot screen

- Go to ‘Exit’ menu and select ‘Load Setup Default’

- Then ‘Exit & Save Changes’

- After the reboot the system will boot off the floppy

- Type ‘awdflash a8nsd016.bin’ to start the BIOS update

- Select ‘No’ to save BIOS and ‘Yes’ to update BIOS

- Once completed press ‘F1’ to reset the system

- Power the system off and unplug the power supply from the mains

Configuring the BIOS:

Now connect all your devices and plug in all your other cards. Reconnect the mains to the power supply and power the system up. Press ‘del’ on your keyboard during bootup to get into the BIOS, in the ‘Main’ section first set the proper time, date and language.

Main

- Make sure all your discs and optical drives are listed

- Enabled HDD SMART monitoring

Advanced

CPU Configuration > DRAM configuration

- Max Memclock (MHz) : DDR400

- All other settings : Auto

If you know the exact timings for your memory modules you can obviously set those manually as well, by leaving these to Auto the motherboard will use the settings as stored in the module’s SPD, hence it should use the proper timings.

CPU Configuration

- Hyper Transport Frequency : 5x

- AMD K8 Cool ‘n’ Quiet control : Disabled

PCIPnP

- Plug & Play O/S : Yes

- Init Display First : PCIEx

- Resources Controlled By : Auto

- PCI/VGA Palette Snoop : Disabled

Onboard Device Configuration > IDE Function Setup

- All settings : Enabled

Onboard Device Configuration > NVRAID Configuration

- RAID Enable : disabled

Obviously you’d set this to ‘Enabled’ and select which disks you’d like to use if you have more than one harddisk you’d like to use with RAID. Keep in mind that RAID only makes sense with identical harddisks each on their own IDE or Serial-Ata channel.

Onboard Device Configuration > USB Configuration

- All settings : Enabled

Onboard Device Configuration

- Onboard NV LAN : Enabled

- Onboard LAN BOOT ROM : Disabled

- Onboard Marvell LAN : Disabled

- AC97 Audio : Enabled

- PCI IEEE 1394a : Disabled

- Silicon Image SATA Controller : Disabled

- Serial Port1 Address : Disabled

- Parallel Port Address : Disabled

- Game Port Address : Disabled

- Midi Port Address : Disabled

Disable all devices you don’t need or plan to use, this frees up extra IRQs and means there’s less device drivers to load creating less system overhead.

SLI Configuration

- EZ-Plug Warning : Enabled

- SLI mode : set to SLI for SLI, Normal for single video card

JumperFree Configuration

- Overclock Profile : Manual

- CPU Frequency : 200.0

- PCI Express Clock : 100MHz

- DDR Voltage : 2.70v

- CPU Multiplier : Auto

- CPU Voltage : Auto

- PCI Clock Sync : 33.33MHz

LAN Cable Status

- POST Check LAN Cable : Disabled

PEG Link Mode

- PEG Link Mode : Disabled

- PEG Root Control : Auto

- PEG Buffer Length : Auto

Speech Configuration

- Speech IC Reporter : Disabled

Instant Music

- Instant Music : Disabled

Power

- ACPI Suspend Type : S3

- ACPI APIC Support : Enabled

Power > APM Configuration

- Restore on AC Power Loss : Disabled

- PWR Button < 4 secs : Instant-Off

- All other settings : Disabled

Power > Hardware Monitor

- Q-Fan Controller : Disabled

Boot > Boot Settings Configuration

- Case Open Warning : Disabled

- Quick Boot : Enabled

- Boot up Floppy Seek : Disabled

- Bootup Num-Lock : On

- Typematic Rate Setting : Enabled

- Typematic Rate (Chars/Sec) : 30

- Typematic Delay (Msec) : 250

- OS Select For DRAM > 64MB : Non-OS2

- Full Screen LOGO : Disabled

- Halt On : All Errors

Now that the BIOS is set up properly exit and save the changes and let the machine reboot. We’d advice you to do a full install of Windows XP from a bootable Windows XP disk as outlined below.

Installing Windows XP

(NOTE: As per the Asus site, you must have BIOS version 1011 or later to run the 6.66 chipset drivers)

You can choose to install either Windows XP Home, Professional or Media Center Edition but we’d recommend you stick with Windows XP Professional. Install the operating system and device drivers according to the following sequence, make sure you already have SP2 on a CDR or different media so you can install that right after the installation of Windows XP completes. Do NOT install device drivers or other software before you have updated Windows XP with SP2. If you know how we’d recommend creating a slipstreamed bootable CD with Windows XP and SP2.

- Download SP2 here: http://download.microsoft.com/download/1/6...935-SP2-ENU.exe

- 02/05/2005 - Download NVIDIA chipset drivers ver 6.66 here: http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_nf4_wi...2_amd_6.66.html

- Download NVIDIA ForceWare drivers ver 78.01 WHQL here: http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_2k_78.01.html

- Install Windows XP Professional from the bootable CD

- Install SP2

- Install NVIDIA chipset drivers ver. 6.66

- Install NVIDIA ForceWare drivers ver 78.01 WHQL

Once all of these device drivers have been installed you can proceed to install device drivers for any other components you might have. Keep in mind that if you want to make use of SLI the system will detect you have two video cards installed and ask for them to be set in SLI mode and reboot. Once the reboot is completed you need to manually enable multi-GPU rendering in the driver tab of the video card. To do that you need to enable ‘Show Advanced Settings’ in the Performance and Quality settings pane first and scroll down to ‘SLI rendering mode’.

If you're posting questions posted in the thread, be short, to the point and make sure you applied above BIOS settings first and have the drivers and software installed we listed. If not, we cannot help you. This thread will be strictly moderated to keep it as clean and informative as possible.

Sander Sassen

CEO, Founder - Hardware Analysis

http://www.hardwareanalysis.com

Question 1 to Sander:

1. I am going with the Thermaltake W0049-RUD Silent PurePower 680W Power Supply ATX. Any problems?

Haven't tested that PSU, but I'd guess that should be sufficient

2. Why are you using the NVidia NIC, why not the Marvell that has MS driver certification?

NVIDIA NIC runs off of the chipset directly, not off of the PCI bus, also one less 3rd party driver and IRQ to use.

3. Why are you not using the Silicon RAID controller vs. nvidia?

Same reason as the NVIDIA NIC.

4. Why 2.7v for Memory, when RAM GUY states 2.8v?

Depends on your memory, 2.7...2.8v is a safe range. Higher voltages allow higher clockspeeds. But I wouldn't start overclocking until I'm 100% confident the system is stable, then you can try taking it up a notch.

[tiagorea]

Postado Originalmente por gamalazer@28 de abril de 2006, 15:48

Onboard LAN Boot ROM - Tem ligação com boot pela rede. Mas ainda não consegui entender a fundo o que realmente essa função faz e como se executa. No meu esta desabilitada

LAN Cable Status - Permite que durante o POST da Bios, ela de uma checada no seu cabo de rede. O meu esta desabilitado, pois faz com que o tempo de dar bbot aumente. MAs apenas da como resultado se os cabos estão passando dados...não conserta nada.

E agora umas duvidas sobre as funções PEG Link Mode:

1- Esta tudo em auto. Mas sei que e aqui que da pra fazer algum tipo de over na placa de video. Alguem sabe explicar o funcionamento das funções? Alguem já testou outras configurações aqui?

←

Tipo quando eu ligo meu pc parece que ela fica checando uma coisa por 5s as luzes do cdrom e dvd ficam piscando sem parar eu queria agilizar pra dar o boot mais rápido sera que é essa Lan cable status ou outra coisa??

edit: Bom eu fiz isso ai do Lan cable status e agora tem aquele tal de quick boot aqui ta enable ele tambem faz checagem de alguma coisa!!

Mais uma coisa e aquele comand rate 1T e 2T minhas memorias sao kingston Value posso colocar 1T ou ela não aguenta??

Abraços

[beavis_rnv]

tiagorea, acho q é só você tirar o cd-rom e o dvd-rom da lista de boot

(mas lembre-se de ativar novamente quando precisar dar boot pelo cd, como na instalacao do win xp)

[Evandro]

Gallardo, digo tiagorea

As latências são relativas.. as minhas aguentam, mas depende de quantos e quais pentes você tem, tem KVR que é single-sided e são ótimas pra over..

você tem que testar uma a uma

Pra dar boot mais ráipdo coloque o Hard-drive como primeiro da lista no boot, mas 5s da pra levar.. se der algum pau, tipo na atualização da BIOS e você precisar dar boot pelo CD, sendo o CD secundário.. sua MB vai ficar em coma.

Esse tempo que você se refere é antes de aparecer o logo da ASUS ?

Se for.. é normal, teclado, floppy, CD e HD são checados a cada boot.

[tiagorea]

Postado Originalmente por Evandro Xita@30 de abril de 2006, 15:07

Gallardo, digo tiagorea

As latências são relativas.. as minhas aguentam, mas depende de quantos e quais pentes você tem, tem KVR que é single-sided e são ótimas pra over..

você tem que testar uma a uma 

Pra dar boot mais ráipdo coloque o Hard-drive como primeiro da lista no boot, mas 5s da pra levar.. se der algum pau, tipo na atualização da BIOS e você precisar dar boot pelo CD, sendo o CD secundário.. sua MB vai ficar em coma.

Esse tempo que você se refere é antes de aparecer o logo da ASUS ?

Se for.. é normal, teclado, floppy, CD e HD são checados a cada boot.

←

Sim é esse tempo que demora antes de aparecer o logo da asus é que tipo antes eu usava uma placa mãe msi e ela ia direto eu ainda estou me acostumando com essa nova!!

Valeu

[Mornion]

Postado Originalmente por tiagorea@30 de abril de 2006, 18:25

Sim é esse tempo que demora antes de aparecer o logo da asus é que tipo antes eu usava uma placa mãe msi e ela ia direto eu ainda estou me acostumando com essa nova!! 

Valeu 

←

Se não quer que apareça o logo da ASUS é só desligar. Na BIOS tem uma opção que se chama "Full Screen Logo", aí em vez do logo vai aparecer a tela normal do POST, q reconhece os HDs, CDs, etc...

[Evandro]

Agora que li o post do AKTech..

Legal, pra começar ta muito bom !

Obrigado por trazer a informação :palmas:

[fov]

"Se não quer que apareça o logo da ASUS é só desligar. Na BIOS tem uma opção que se chama "Full Screen Logo", aí em vez do logo vai aparecer a tela normal do POST, q reconhece os HDs, CDs, etc...

mas isso n vai tornar o boot + rápido

[vmartins]

Pessoal,

Vou entrar na discussão aqui com vocês. Gostei muito da interatividade de todos.

Eu tive até semana passada uma A8N SLI Deluxe, uma excelente placa, usei duas eVga 6600 GT em SLI, com quatros discos SATA 200 da Seagate em RAID (um par na controladora da nVidia e outro para na da Silicon), além de quatros memórias Kingston 512. Nunca tive nenhum problema.

Agora eu estou com uma A8N SLI Premium, essa é melhor ainda, por causa dos heat-pipes no chipset. Ela não é mais rápida, mas é mais silenciosa e tem temperatura menor. Estou usando uma nova placa de vídeo, uma eVga 7600GT, muito boa. Consegui sem over 6200 no 3DMark 2005, até que está bom.

Essa semana eu vou começar o meu overclock. Ainda estou estudando como fazer isso da melhor maneira em AMD 64 (eu tenho um 3700+). Eu era bom com os Athlon XP... As coisas mudaram um pouco agora, pouca coisa, mas mudou.

Abração,

Vinicius

[beavis_rnv]

Da um resumo pros priguicosos ai Evandro Xita!

[vmartins]

AKTech,

Funcionou sem problemas os drivers 6.85? No site da nVidia eles, aparerentemente, não são direcionadas para a nossa placa mãe... Vai saber. Eu acabei de baixar e vou instalar, eu não tinha arriscado isso antes.

Eu sempre usei o driver da nVidia e sempre achei melhor. Mas faz tempo que eu não uso o som on-board, estou usando uma Audigy... Essa sim é boa. Mesmo o som on-board sendo muito bom, ainda ficava com ruído de fundo quanto eu ligava nas minhas caixas... Vai saber, eu tinha tentado de tudo, limpar conector, tirar qualquer intereferência, e foi só trocar a placa de som que acabou... Vai saber...

Abraços,

Vinicius

[vmartins]

Eu de novo!

Alguém já atualizou a BIOS da Silicon Image?

Abraços,

Vinicius

[Mornion]

Postado Originalmente por fov@30 de abril de 2006, 21:30

"Se não quer que apareça o logo da ASUS é só desligar. Na BIOS tem uma opção que se chama "Full Screen Logo", aí em vez do logo vai aparecer a tela normal do POST, q reconhece os HDs, CDs, etc...

mas isso n vai tornar o boot + rápido

←

Não disse que iria, só ensinei como desabilitar

[gamalazer]

Pessoal,

Pra todos que estão com duvidas pro tempo do Boot. Vou dar minha opiniao e sugestoes....lembrem que não e regra e que não existe um valor pra ser considerado excelente ou ruim.....o importante e sempre funcionar !!

Tempo de Boot:

Ate 10s - Considero Bom

Ate 4-8s - Considero ótimo ( O meu ta nessa faixa)

Mais que 10s - Ta precisando arrumar alguma coisa na Bios !

Sugestoes na Bios pra obter Boot mais rápido (como deixo a minha)

1- HDD Smart Monitoring - habilitado - Fiz testes com as duas opções e não mudou nada no tempo de boot. Assim considero idela deixar a função ligada

2- Onboard Lan Boot Rom - desabilitado - Com ela ligado tive a imprensao que o boot ficou mais lento. Parece que o sistema faz uma leitura a mais pra poder deixar a rede pronta pra ser acessado e ligar o micro.

3- Pci Ieee 1394a - desabilitado - não uso nenhum dispositivo firewire e por isso economizo sua checagem no sistema

4- Serial Port1 Addess - desabilitado - não uso nada nessa porta. Mesmo motivo do item acima.

5- Parallel Port Address - desabilitado - Idem ao anterior

6- Ecp mode use DMA, Game Port Address, Midi Port Address e Midi Port IRQ - desabilitados - Idem ao anterior

7- Post Check Lan cable - desabilitado - não vejo função em testar os cabos da conexao. Testei as duas opções e também senti uma mudança na velocidade de boot

8- Instant Music - desabilitado - Sem necessidade de tocar musica durante o boot

9- Todas as opções para ligar o computador usando: mouse, teclado, rede e componentes PCI - desabilitados - não sei se interferem na velocidade de boot (não testei)

10- Boot device priority - Colocar apenas o HD como primario e em todos os outros deixar vazio - Economiza um bom tempo (já testado)

11- Case open warning - desabilitado - não testei pra saber se altera a velocidade

12- Quick Boot - habilitado - Onde realmente faz a diferença de um boot lento e mais rápido.

13- Boot up floppy seek - desabilitado - Economiza tempo já que não precisara ficar buscando inf da unidade de disquete

14- Full Screen Logo - desabilitado - Ganha um tempinho, já que não aparecera na tela a marca da Asus

Bem, sao essas as minhas sugestoes. não sao regras, mas possuo um boot na casa de 4a6s ate iniciar o POST do Win. Vamos discutir mais e aprimorar nosos sistemas.

[tiagorea]

Valeu gamalazer fiz umas coisinhas aqui que faltaram deu uma melhorada no boot ate aparece o screen da asus!!

[Evandro]

Postado Originalmente por beavis_rnv@01 de maio de 2006, 18:46

Da um resumo pros priguicosos ai Evandro Xita!

←

resumo do que amigo ?

Gamalazer, o cas opening warning meu ta ativado.. e o case aberto, e cadê o aviso "warning" ?

Nenhum..

[AKTech]

Oi Vmartins,

Como estou com problemas na placa de rede estou testando os drivers. Até agora tudo funcionou sem problemas, também vi alguns posts em fóruns nos EUA e todos que usaram o 6.85 também não tiveram problemas.

Um abraço,

AKTech

[beavis_rnv]

Postado Originalmente por Evandro Xita@02 de maio de 2006, 01:06

resumo do que amigo ?

Gamalazer, o cas opening warning meu ta ativado.. e o case aberto, e cadê o aviso "warning" ?

Nenhum..

←

Do post do AKtech :palmas: :palmas:

[beavis_rnv]

Gamalazer,

o que e o POST do Windows?? é quando comeca a passar as barrinhas azuis com a tela do XP?

[gamalazer]

o que e o POST do Windows?? é quando comeca a passar as barrinhas azuis com a tela do XP?

Sim. Assim que aparece essa tela paro de contar o tempo de Boot. Pois desse momento pra frente já e sistema operacional controlando a maquina.

Gamalazer, o cas opening warning meu ta ativado.. e o case aberto, e cadê o aviso "warning" ?

Nenhum..

você habilitou ele na Bios. Agora preciso saber se você plugou um cabo no conector da placa-mãe. Alguns gabinetes veem com esse cabo. So assim você tera esse sistema funcionando com os alertas sonoros da Bios (não sei se tem mensagem escrita, pois meu gabinete não tem).

[Evandro]

Ah tá gamalazer.. tendi.

Quem montou num fui eu hehehehehe

beavis, o setup é em inglês então não precisa traduzir muita coisa.

Ali ele dá uma visão geral de como você deve setar sua BIOS pra começar.

Com aqueles parâmetros da pra ligar o PC e instalar todos os programas, pra depois você começar a afinar as configurações, como baixar latências ou fazer over, mas isso vai variar de acordo com o seu Hardware.

Traduzir td é soda ein !!

[leymar]

Pessoal será que alguém pode me ajudar ? Seguinte, comprei essa placa A8N-SLI e pretendo por nela, um HD SATAII 250GB, Uma Geforce 7600GT, dois gravadores de DVD, 1280 MB de ram em dois pentes, sendo 1 de 1GB e outro de 256Mb, vou usar um Athlon 64 3000+Venice, uma placa de captura PCI PlayTV e um modem simples V90. Uma Seventeam 500W BKV aguenta essa parada ? Pergunto isso porque essa fonte tem duas linhas 12v com 18A cada. Li em algum lugar, que essa placa precisa de 25A no 12V com configuração robusta. Alguém sabe se essas duas linhas de 18A cada vai aguentar ? Valeu, abraços a todos...

[Visitante]

comprei uma MB KL8 S939 ASUS A8N-SLI AMD 64F

PROC. AMD 939P ATHLON 64 3000+ BOX

MEMORIA DDR 512MB 400 PC3200 samsung

VGA PCIEXP 256 MB GF 6500 DVI?TV XFX

HD SATA 80.0 GB SEAGATE 7200 ETC... TUDO BEM MONTADO, CERTINHO. MAS AO USAR UM PROG. DE EDIÇÃO DE IMAGEM (ASHAMPOOMOVIE)

A MAQUINA DAÍ UNS MINUTOS DESLIGA. VERIFIQUEI A TEMPERATURA QUE ATINGE UM LIMITE E PROVOCA ESTE DESLIGAMENTO. COMO DEVO PROCEDER? TROCAR O COOLER DO chipset??

OCARG.

[beavis_rnv]

Amigo ocarg, tente abrir o gabinete e colocar um ventilador o mais perto possivel do gabinete.. ligado no maximo

Essa é uma solucao provisoria.. mais você tera q comprar um gabinete de 4 baias que suporte fan frontal e traseiro.. e instalar os fans..